2015 Display & Build

Total Raised in 2015 for Redkite: $4,500, including $1000 from Energy Australia.

We ran a raffle and would like to congratulate the 9 winners that were drawn out. A list of prizes and winners can be found below.

1st Prize: J Rich. Signed cricket Bat by Brad Haddin (Lithgow Sports Power), $50 Gift card (Coles)
2nd Prize: C Morley. Signed Cricket Bat by Nathan Lyon (Lithgow Sports Power), BBQ Secrets Cookbook (Rich Evans)
3rd Prize: N Bannon. Amicro Touch Tablet IV 9.7″ (Harvey Norman), Solar Santa Light (Great priced furniture), BBQ Secrets Cookbook (Rich Evans), 25% off Voucher for Kidding Around
4th Prize: S Wotton. Aroma Diffuser (TSG), Coffee Mug (Hopes Chemist), Natural Wax Candle (Naturally by Kelley), $25 Gift Voucher (R & K Workwear)
5th Prize: Mrs Kyle. Blissful Body Kit (Dougherty’s chemist), A Pillow (Rustic Rose), BBQ Secrets Cookbook (Rich Evans), Gift Basket (Blooms Chemist)
6th Prize: M Scott. BBQ Secrets Cookbook (Rich Evans), Coffee Mug (Rustic Rose), Telstra Wi-Fi Modem 4G (Lithgow Technology Services), Coles $50 Gift Card (Coles), 2 Fancy Soaps (West End Newsagents), Kagi Pendant (Regency Jewellers), Manly Poster (Prints and Frames)
7th Prize: K Morris. $25 voucher (R & K Workwear), Lady’s Wallet (Respectfully), Aroma Diffuser (West End Newsagents), Natural soaps (West End Newsagents), Fancy soaps (West End Newsagents)
8th Prize: Jade Coleman. Woolworths Hamper (Woolworths Lithgow), $20 Gift card (Bunnings), Family pass for 2016 Ironfest (Macgreggor Ross), Fancy soaps (West End Newsagents)
9th Prize: Mrs Kett. Cheese platter (Miranne Jewellers)

Not mentioned are the Crochered Ducks that were added to a few of the prizes, and were donated by Bits and Pieces, Lithgow. There was also a 5th BBQ Secrets book from Rich Evans added to one of the prizes, but we forgot to document it, sorry about that.

Total Raised for Redkite: $4,500, including $1000 from Energy Australia

We ran a raffle and would like to congratulate the 9 winners that were drawn out. A list of prizes and winners can be found below.

1st Prize: J Rich. Signed cricket Bat by Brad Haddin (Lithgow Sports Power), $50 Gift card (Coles)
2nd Prize: C Morley. Signed Cricket Bat by Nathan Lyon (Lithgow Sports Power), BBQ Secrets Cookbook (Rich Evans)
3rd Prize: N Bannon. Amicro Touch Tablet IV 9.7″ (Harvey Norman), Solar Santa Light (Great priced furniture), BBQ Secrets Cookbook (Rich Evans), 25% off Voucher for Kidding Around
4th Prize: S Wotton. Aroma Diffuser (TSG), Coffee Mug (Hopes Chemist), Natural Wax Candle (Naturally by Kelley), $25 Gift Voucher (R & K Workwear)
5th Prize: Mrs Kyle. Blissful Body Kit (Dougherty’s chemist), A Pillow (Rustic Rose), BBQ Secrets Cookbook (Rich Evans), Gift Basket (Blooms Chemist)
6th Prize: M Scott. BBQ Secrets Cookbook (Rich Evans), Coffee Mug (Rustic Rose), Telstra Wi-Fi Modem 4G (Lithgow Technology Services), Coles $50 Gift Card (Coles), 2 Fancy Soaps (West End Newsagents), Kagi Pendant (Regency Jewellers), Manly Poster (Prints and Frames)
7th Prize: K Morris. $25 voucher (R & K Workwear), Lady’s Wallet (Respectfully), Aroma Diffuser (West End Newsagents), Natural soaps (West End Newsagents), Fancy soaps (West End Newsagents)
8th Prize: Jade Coleman. Woolworths Hamper (Woolworths Lithgow), $20 Gift card (Bunnings), Family pass for 2016 Ironfest (Macgreggor Ross), Fancy soaps (West End Newsagents)
9th Prize: Mrs Kett. Cheese platter (Miranne Jewellers)

Not mentioned are the Crochered Ducks that were added to a few of the prizes, and were donated by Bits and Pieces, Lithgow. There was also a 5th BBQ Secrets book from Rich Evans added to one of the prizes, but we forgot to document it, sorry about that.

Display Images

2015 Display
2015 Display
2015 Display
2015 Display
2015 Display
2015 Display
2015 Display
2015 Display
2015 Build

Display Videos

Build

January

The lights from 2014’s display are all put away and I have started working on the 2015 display. At the moment I am just sorting out controllers, fixing and upgrading lights, and thats about all, but I have a few plans for this year, including:

  • Upgrade the pDMX items to plain DMX, to allow easier distribution, and more standardised communication which should allow things to be a little easier in terms of connections.
  • Repair the floodlights. These are starting to really show their age, and have a number of failures in quite a few. I have about 4 or 5 spare boards so if I have enough LED’s I’ll make them up and swap them out with any damaged sets to allow a more seamless repair path.
  • Open all the controller cases and do any repairs, upgrades and tidyups. Some of these have basically been in service for 3 or 4 seasons with no repairs needed, but I dont know the condition of the actual boards and wiring, so a good check, upgraded fusing etc will be carried out where needed
  • 6 new silhouettes for the bedroom. I have the silhouettes and think I have enough lights to put on them.
  • I will need a few additional 27 channel controllers for items this year, and maybe an additional J1Sys P2
  • New leaping arches are a definate add, and I should have enough spare outlets to allow me to use existing controllers, but they will likely need a PSU upgrade to a decent Meanwell in 2 of the boxes.
  • New Tune To signs, with the old ones being moved to the front of the yard to allow people to see them easier

LED Floodlights 13-33 were all pulled apart, tested, repaired and any damage that was found was fixed as I was going. These lights have been in service for many years and I am very surprised they are still operating so well, but I plan on giving them a slight visual upgrade as the black paint on most has peeled off, leaving the light to start to rust. I’ll get a couple of tins of different color green spraypaint soon and spray them green so they don’t stick out quite as much when on the green grass during the display.

I also did an upgrade to the snow machines so I can place a LED Floodlight under each one during their use and control the LED light remotely from the remote used to operate the snow machines. This way I can turn the lights off when the snow machines are not being used so they don’t shine towards the road, but then quickly turn them on when I want to operate the snow machines.

While cleaning the floodlights some had minor water damage, so I was cleaning the back with 100% isopropyl alcohol, but in this case I forgot to tighten down the power supply and a small spark ignited the alcohol. Of course I did what any self respecting light enthusiast should do, and took a picture before blowing it out.
While cleaning the floodlights some had minor water damage, so I was cleaning the back with 100% isopropyl alcohol, but in this case I forgot to tighten down the power supply and a small spark ignited the alcohol. Of course I did what any self respecting light enthusiast should do, and took a picture before blowing it out.
This is an image of the Snow machine controllers and the remote receiver used to control the 2 snow machines and 2 LED Floodlights. The 12V power for the receiver is sourced from one of the snow machine remotes, making it totally independent of additional power sources. The connection at the top is for the 24V power in for the 2 floodlights which can be mounted below the snow machines for the best effect.
This is an image of the Snow machine controllers and the remote receiver used to control the 2 snow machines and 2 LED Floodlights. The 12V power for the receiver is sourced from one of the snow machine remotes, making it totally independent of additional power sources. The connection at the top is for the 24V power in for the 2 floodlights which can be mounted below the snow machines for the best effect.

February

Still repairing and upgrading, but it’s pretty much as time permits. So far all of the boxes have been worked on, but some still need replacement fans for cooling as the ones I bought were pretty cheap and have only lasted 2 seasons in most cases. I still have a collection of 40 and 50mm 5V and 12V fans so they are perfect to use in the cases.

All the Lights have been repaired and stored away with the exception of the LED matrix which requires a rebuild anyway, so that should happen later in the year.

March

Mini Season is approaching in a few months, but this year I am not planning on much of a display at the mini, as in previous years there has simply been limited space for all of us to put items up, but I am doing a few talks at the Sydney Mini.

Big tidy up in the shed saw a couple of trailer loads go to the local dump, but I think I could throw the same volume out agin and still not make a dent in the mess out there.

May

Well the 2 days of the Sydney Mini are over for another year. A big thanks to my son Jacob who helped video and photograph the Mini for the 2 days, Ben for running the mini, and Craig for supplying the location and parking.

I think things went really well at the Mini, with lots of new faces learning heaps, and with a 2 day layout it gave people a lot more time to talk one on one, and yes I talked a LOT about Eddy’s 3D printer lol

June

Guess who bought a printer…. A 3D printer I mean lol

I blame Eddy and his 3D printer demonstration for making me see about 30 things I could make for the display this year, and AussiePhil provided some interesting 3D printed covers for us to drool over, and dream to build.

I was given a copy of Phil's LED Cover design, but decided to design and print my own, but there have been a few design steps on the way. In this image the covers on the right are from Phil, and my initial design is on the left, but it's too small
I was given a copy of Phil's LED Cover design, but decided to design and print my own, but there have been a few design steps on the way. In this image the covers on the right are from Phil, and my initial design is on the left, but it's too small
This is the final design and it's a press fit onto the LED. I have been asked to include a cable tie clip and maybe cable clip into a future version so that sounds like a bit of a challenge for later weeks. Now I just have to wait for the 15kg of filament to arrive so I can get serious about printing.
This is the final design and it's a press fit onto the LED. I have been asked to include a cable tie clip and maybe cable clip into a future version so that sounds like a bit of a challenge for later weeks. Now I just have to wait for the 15kg of filament to arrive so I can get serious about printing.
Here is a comparison of a bare LED and a cover, but the camera does not do it justice, and the light is way more even on the cover, at least to the eye
Here is a comparison of a bare LED and a cover, but the camera does not do it justice, and the light is way more even on the cover, at least to the eye
Another job was designed and started this week, and that is covers for the ends of the Tint Tubes. These polycarbonate tubes are open ended and attract bugs, snails and even grass in them, so I decided to 3D print a clip on cap for the top, and a matching base (the base has a slot to allow cable entry). These are currently being printed with the last of the white ABS I have here.
Another job was designed and started this week, and that is covers for the ends of the Tint Tubes. These polycarbonate tubes are open ended and attract bugs, snails and even grass in them, so I decided to 3D print a clip on cap for the top, and a matching base (the base has a slot to allow cable entry). These are currently being printed with the last of the white ABS I have here.
The workshop area, now much tidier than it has been in ages. May I also suggest not blinking... Yes that is a weeping angel from Dr Who lol
The workshop area, now much tidier than it has been in ages. May I also suggest not blinking... Yes that is a weeping angel from Dr Who lol
This is an under-rated connector for the heat bed on the printer. In just over a week it overheated and failed, causing a heat bed failure.
This is an under-rated connector for the heat bed on the printer. In just over a week it overheated and failed, causing a heat bed failure.
The connector on the board also broke off as well. A temporary fix was put in to allow me to continue printing until the replacement heat bed arrives in the next week or so. A big thanks to The 3D Printer in Melbourne for their quick and great warranty service.
The connector on the board also broke off as well. A temporary fix was put in to allow me to continue printing until the replacement heat bed arrives in the next week or so. A big thanks to The 3D Printer in Melbourne for their quick and great warranty service.
A few of the LED covers being printed. While I can fit 35 on the bed, I found smaller lots are less prone to problems. Here are 20 in the early stages of being printed, and this takes roughly 4 hours.
A few of the LED covers being printed. While I can fit 35 on the bed, I found smaller lots are less prone to problems. Here are 20 in the early stages of being printed, and this takes roughly 4 hours.
A small collection is slowly building up, all vapor finished as I found it made them less porous, but also stronger and an additional benefit of actually allowing the clear lacquer used as a UV protectant, to stick better as I think it has less gaps to fill, thus bonds with more material, giving a more solid coat.
A small collection is slowly building up, all vapor finished as I found it made them less porous, but also stronger and an additional benefit of actually allowing the clear lacquer used as a UV protectant, to stick better as I think it has less gaps to fill, thus bonds with more material, giving a more solid coat.
The holder for the acetone treatment. This fits neatly inside the rice cooker and holds quite a few LED's. Just 5ml of acetone is placed in the cooker, the LED's placed in, and the cooker warmed up. After acetone is seen condensing on the top of the cooker, the heat is turned off and left for 90 seconds and then the lid and led's are removed and sat aside to cool. This still leaves some lines, but overall the covers are a lot less porous, and smoother.
The holder for the acetone treatment. This fits neatly inside the rice cooker and holds quite a few LED's. Just 5ml of acetone is placed in the cooker, the LED's placed in, and the cooker warmed up. After acetone is seen condensing on the top of the cooker, the heat is turned off and left for 90 seconds and then the lid and led's are removed and sat aside to cool. This still leaves some lines, but overall the covers are a lot less porous, and smoother.
Once the Acetone treatment is done, the covers are left for a day to outgas and rid themselves of any more acetone from the treatment. Once outgassed they are put in the larger box with the rest. I have a small collection of led covers outside in the sun waiting to see what is the best combination of sprays to coat the cover with for ultimate UV protection.
Once the Acetone treatment is done, the covers are left for a day to outgas and rid themselves of any more acetone from the treatment. Once outgassed they are put in the larger box with the rest. I have a small collection of led covers outside in the sun waiting to see what is the best combination of sprays to coat the cover with for ultimate UV protection.

July

A lot of Covers done so far, with 400 completed, and more Natural ABS on the way to complete even more.

Also been flat out printing parts for more 3D stars, and you can see the results below. Once I have a few of them I’ll do a decent video lol.

August

700 LED Light covers now bagged and ready for use, and another 60 more done, and ready to be bagged tomorrow once another 40 are done.

The three stars are completed and tested, and have been put away ready for another few more to be printed later this week. I’ll start adding them to the sequences later in the month, and try to get a decent video of a few of them running.

lot of LED light covers have been done, and I have started to spray paint them with the UV and weather protection. A couple of months ago I selected 4 clear spray paint types and tested them against a control set of light covers and determined the best coating setup to protect the covers from rain and UV damage.

It appears as though most of the coatings gave adequate protection, but the best overall was a combination of Dulux DuraMax Plastic Primer and Septone Acrylic Topcoat Clear with UV stabilisers. This setup did not peal off, formed a waterproof coating and did not get any mould growth on the outside.

Now it’s time to start spraying the covers 100 at a time, or in this case 200.

I even had time to make my lovely wife the Garden Well she always wanted. Apparently she did not see the minutes of effort I put in to do this!
I even had time to make my lovely wife the Garden Well she always wanted. Apparently she did not see the minutes of effort I put in to do this!
12 Pointed star parts
12 Pointed star parts
The stars are starting to be put together
The stars are starting to be put together
The first 10 pieces are put together before the pixels are put in place, and then the last 2 pieces are installed and glued in place, forming the completed star.
The first 10 pieces are put together before the pixels are put in place, and then the last 2 pieces are installed and glued in place, forming the completed star.
LED Covers ready to be sprayed with a top coat
LED Covers ready to be sprayed with a top coat

September

1700 or so LED Light covers are completed and 2 coats of UV protecting spraypaint have been added to them all.

I started adding the covers to the LED’s for the show and I am quite suprised how they look.

Here is a row of 100 LED's used on the shrubs at the front of the house. The left side has the new 3D Printed covers installed, and the right side is bare LED's still let to have the covers installed.
Here is a row of 100 LED's used on the shrubs at the front of the house. The left side has the new 3D Printed covers installed, and the right side is bare LED's still let to have the covers installed.
Ready to be stored away until they are used this year. I probably should have turned them off, but they looked so good lol
Ready to be stored away until they are used this year. I probably should have turned them off, but they looked so good lol
I started installing the covers on the Minitrees as well, but I did not bother tidying up the branches yet, as that can wait until they are installed.
I started installing the covers on the Minitrees as well, but I did not bother tidying up the branches yet, as that can wait until they are installed.
The Minitree in closeup. They do need replacing, but that will have to wait until next year, or as funds allow.
The Minitree in closeup. They do need replacing, but that will have to wait until next year, or as funds allow.

November

Due to the increase of people walking into the yard in previous years (usually by lifting up the tape and walking under it), we decided to place a fence down the driveway to block access to the front yard entirely. I am still waiting on the gate, but the fence is in place now, and that will be an ideal place to place the old tint tubes that were next to the driveway in the past

This is the driveway fence, still with supports to hold it straight until the concrete dries completely.
This is the driveway fence, still with supports to hold it straight until the concrete dries completely.
Rather than simply cabletying the tint tubes to the fence and risk cracking them, or scratching the fence, I did a quick design for a 3D printed fence mount. 2 Cableties hold the mount to the fence rails, and 1 more wraps around the tint pole to hold it in place. One of these will be placed at the top and bottom of each tint pole along the driveway.
Rather than simply cabletying the tint tubes to the fence and risk cracking them, or scratching the fence, I did a quick design for a 3D printed fence mount. 2 Cableties hold the mount to the fence rails, and 1 more wraps around the tint pole to hold it in place. One of these will be placed at the top and bottom of each tint pole along the driveway.
Here it is sitting on the tint tube
Here it is sitting on the tint tube
And installed on the fence
And installed on the fence

December

When we put the show up and started running, there has been one area that I always thought looked a little poor – the leaping arches. The length of the arch was great, but the pixels on it were too small an area over such a big arch, so it looked too sparsly lit. Some people had used various covering of the arch to give the LED’s more impact, but I wanted something different, so I came up with a newly designed C7 light, but it’s a little smaller than the ones I used on the other items in the display. This C7 LED cover has a flat side that is ideal to mount against a rope or, in this case, conduit, so I went off and started printing 300 of them with 255 needed.

A bare pixel on the arch, and because the arch is black, it does not really light up much additional area. This is the back of the arch, so it does have a lot of scratches, but the front looks fine.
A bare pixel on the arch, and because the arch is black, it does not really light up much additional area. This is the back of the arch, so it does have a lot of scratches, but the front looks fine.
The arch with covers installed. You can really see the difference in the area that the light illuminates, and the arches themselves look a lot more defined and full.
The arch with covers installed. You can really see the difference in the area that the light illuminates, and the arches themselves look a lot more defined and full.
A few more covers in the printer for the last couple of arches.
A few more covers in the printer for the last couple of arches.
The screen is lowered and rested against the ladder to allow the back to be removed and the repair carried out
The screen is lowered and rested against the ladder to allow the back to be removed and the repair carried out
One of these is faulty - can you find it?.
One of these is faulty - can you find it?.
A closeup of the repair in progress as the screen was tested before the LED was s
A closeup of the repair in progress as the screen was tested before the LED was s
It must be time for repairs. This ropelight item had a few bad parts that were not too obvious last year, but this year it looked terrible, so I had time today to restring it with new 24V White Ropelight
It must be time for repairs. This ropelight item had a few bad parts that were not too obvious last year, but this year it looked terrible, so I had time today to restring it with new 24V White Ropelight
Slowly getting there, but using a LOT of cableties in the process. It was too dark to take an image once completed, but the sections which were colored in the previous image were once again sprayed, and then a topcoat of UV protecting spraypaint was applied to see if it helps the ropelight last a bit longer.
Slowly getting there, but using a LOT of cableties in the process. It was too dark to take an image once completed, but the sections which were colored in the previous image were once again sprayed, and then a topcoat of UV protecting spraypaint was applied to see if it helps the ropelight last a bit longer.
A screenshot of LSP in action. I really dont miss all the crashes, lockups and utter faulures that LSP created, but at the time it did what we wanted, and took us into the Pixel era and allowed us to appreciate just how good xLights really is.
A screenshot of LSP in action. I really dont miss all the crashes, lockups and utter faulures that LSP created, but at the time it did what we wanted, and took us into the Pixel era and allowed us to appreciate just how good xLights really is.

2015 Spend

8 Rolls Natural ABS: $240
6 Rolls Natural clear ABS: $180
Cleaning Alcohol: $25
Snow Machines Alcohol: $40
3D Printer: $1600
Steel: $90
Storage Boxes: $50
Bunnings Various: $130
Spraypaint: $400
Glue: $120
Ladder: $210
Elastic & Material: $50
Fencing: $700
Lollies: $600

Total: $4,435